In October 2008, I walked Slovenia’s Karst and Riviera, on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, with my friend Caren. The grape leaves were scarlet in the late fall sun, but we’d missed the harvest. At our agriturismo, the owner offered us teran, the local red wine. “Did you make it yourselves?” we asked.

“Yes, we picked the grapes last Friday,” she told us.

The teran was a little rough on the tongue, but very tasty.